The fine grit diamond wheel is cutting better than a coarse grit wheel?
- Is the wheel loaded or glazed up?
- If so, it needs to be dressed according to our recommendations
- Was the wheel was directly removed from the box and did not cut?
- Stick the wheel open prior to installing it on the machine
- Are the RPM’s within the correct range for the bond type?
- Are the wheels made in the same bond?
My diamond wheel is not lasting as long as it used to?
- Is the wheel being used for the same application?
- Does the wheel sound the same?
- The drive belts between the motor and spindle could be slipping.
- Tool clamping could be loose or to far from point of grind causing vibration.
- Is the clamp close enough to the periphery of the blade when saw grinding?
- Is the wheel spinning or slipping on the arbor?
- Are the wheel RPMs dropping during grinding?
- Is it a different carbide grade than usual?
- Excessive spindle wear or bad spindle bearing
- Is the wheel bond / specification the same?
The diamond wheel is louder than it used to be?
- Is the wheel loaded or glazed over?
- Is clamping loose causing vibration and chattering in the wheel?
- Are the spindle bearings bad?
- Did the spindle speed change?
- Is it a different carbide grade?
How to fix run out on diamond wheels?
- Remove flanges from the wheel and clean thoroughly. Put the flanges back on and check again for run out.
- Check the bore hole for scoring, scratches, or other defects
- Check the machine spindle for run out
- Check the spindle bearings with a dial indicator
- Dress the wheel to the arbor
The diamond wheel is getting too hot (bluing on the part)
- Adjust the spindle speed
- Spindle speed maybe too high
- Incorrect coolant nozzle placement
- Using the wrong type of coolant
- If the wheel is glazing up try taking heavier passes to keep it open
- Try take lighter passes if wheel is loading up due to Micro-grain carbides
- Lower the Diamond/CBN concentration
- Use a coarser grit if possible
- Are you grinding a micrograin carbide, if so, slow feed rate?
Your diamond wheel is acting softer than the previous supplier’s wheel
- Is the finish the same as you were getting from previous supplier
- Grit could be finer or coarser based on supplier
- Are the wheel spec’s the same as the previous supplier
- Is the bond color the same as old supplier
- Check the machines belts for slippage
- Is the spindle speed correct ?
- Has the diamond wheel grinding surface been properly opened up?
The diamond wheel is acting softer than it used to
- Check the grinding machine spindle bearings for any play
- Check for grinding machine belt slippage between motor and spindle
- Are the RPMs decreasing during grinding?
- Did the bond or wheel spec change?
Dressing sticks are not dressing the wheel
- The dressing stick should always be one to two steps finer than the superabrasive wheel grit
- If it is a very fine wheel (D600 or finer) we don’t have a dressing stick that is able to dress it because it will rip out the diamond
Why can’t I use the same wheel if a switch from water to oil based coolant?
- Water based coolant absorbs heat from the grinding process much better than oil based coolant
- Oil coolants typically needs a softer sharper bonded wheel
- Oil acts as lubricant between the wheel and tool where as water coolant does not.
- Changing to oil from water based coolant can cause tips to blue and the wheel not to cut as well
EC wheel causing more burrs
- Voltage/Amperage settings are too low
- Make sure you are using a CBN wheel for best results
- Adjust spindle speed up and down to get best finish
- Slow down the cutting process
- Dress or open the grinding section of the wheel to expose new sharp cutting edges
Can I dress a metal bond wheel?
- Wheel should be self-dressing if used at the correct feeds and speeds for the material type
- Typically metal bond wheels need to be reconditioned with spark erosion process to expose new abrasive
- Ask us about companies that will dress your wheel for you.
- We will only re-dress metal bond wheels that are made by us.
Hitting a gullet when facing is causing the diamond section to come off
- Set the stops accurately in order to stop the wheel hitting the gullet
- Use a smaller abrasive section such as 1/8” section instead of a 1/4”
- You may notice a burr around the edge of the diamond wheel core due to the wheel hitting the gullet, this can cause diamond to separate from the wheel body
Causes of a poor surface finish and how to resolve
- Vibration in the wheel or spindle
- Clean flanges and spindle, reinstall and check for run out on wheel face.
- Open the wheel structure with dressing stick
- Change the spindle bearings if any play is detected
- Check the belts and spindle
- Wheel should be mounted on adapter and trued
- Coolant placement could be off
- Coolant filtration
- Wheel is too soft and aggressive
- Wheel is too hard causing bouncing or vibration
- RPMs can vary the finish
- Excessive Dressing
- Use less pressure on the dressing stick
- Reduce down feed or cross feed